The Resilient Souls of the Tide Country

Introduction: Where Land and Water Embrace

The Sundarbans is not merely a forest; it is a world where land and water embrace in an eternal dance, where the tides dictate the rhythm of life, and where human communities have carved out an existence on the very edge of the wild. Spread across the vast delta of the Ganga, Brahmaputra, and Meghna rivers, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to not only the magnificent Royal Bengal Tiger but also to millions of people who live on the 54 inhabited islands of the Indian Sundarbans .

These island villages are where the human story of the Sundarbans unfolds – a story of resilience, adaptation, and an intimate relationship with one of the most challenging environments on Earth. Out of the 102 islands in the Indian Sundarbans, 54 are inhabited while the remaining 48 are covered by dense mangrove forest . The population here is primarily due to immigration and movement from neighbouring regions, with both push and pull factors responsible for the movement of people into this tide country .

This guide takes you into the heart of these villages – to understand how people live, work, worship, and dream amidst the mangroves.

The Major Inhabited Islands: A Patchwork of Human Settlement

The inhabited islands of the Sundarbans are scattered across the delta, each with its own character, history, and connection to the forest. Here are the most significant ones:

The People: A Mosaic of Communities

Bengali Settlers and Indigenous Groups

The population of the Sundarbans is a rich mosaic of communities. The majority are Bengali settlers who migrated from neighbouring districts and Bangladesh over the past century, drawn by the promise of land and opportunity. Alongside them live indigenous communities, most notably the Munda tribe, who have their own distinct culture and traditions.

The Munda Community of Tripligheri

At the far end of Rajat Jubilee village on Satjelia island lies a tribal pocket called Tripligheri, home to 100 to 120 Munda families . Tripligheri begins where the concrete road running through the village ends – a metaphor for the marginalization these communities often experience.

The Munda people migrated from the Chota Nagpur Plateau to the Sundarbans in the late 19th century . Today, they have adapted to life in the tide country while preserving their unique cultural identity.

Deepali Sardar, 32, belongs to the Munda community of Tripligheri. She earns a living by performing traditional tribal dances at local lodges in Tripligheri and Sajnekhali . She is not alone. More than 50 women have been doing the same for at least the past five years – a period that coincides with the tourism boom in the Sundarbans .

"Earlier, we danced only during Tusu. That was about celebration. Now we dance to earn money," Deepali explains. Tusu is a harvest festival celebrated with great enthusiasm. For each performance, a group of eight dancers earns ₹1,000 .

Deepali's story reflects both the challenges and opportunities of life in the Sundarbans. "If I have to go to Gosaba, I must cross two rivers — the Datta and the Garal. The unearthly hours don't bother me. This is a respectable way to earn a living. My mother spent her life going to the forest to collect firewood, edible roots and fruits. That's no way to live," she says .

She also speaks of others who travel to Bangalore, Chennai and Andhra Pradesh to work as farmhands. "I have heard of their plight. Some had paralytic attacks from the inhuman workload, and some never returned. Yes, they earn ₹30,000 in three months. But for me, this is a better option. At least I'm home with my family" .

The Gramer Lok and Bhadra Lok: A Social Divide

On islands like Satjelia, there exists a distinct social hierarchy based on geography and occupation . The community is geographically and socially divided amongst the "riverside people," known as the "gramer lok," and the "village people," known as the "bhadra lok" .

For the most part, these two groups do not mix because they live very different lives despite their shared environment . While the bhadra lok think of the gramer lok as poor, uneducated, and primitive in their cultural beliefs, the gramer lok refer to the bhadra lok as greedy and arrogant . They have differences in religious, political, and economic values, revolving mainly around how the parties consider their relationship with the forest itself.

The Rhythm of Life: Livelihoods in the Tide Country

Life in the Sundarbans pulses with the tides. Twice a day, the water alters the landscape in almost supernatural ways, and the people here have learned to read these changes like a second language .

Fishing: The Primary Occupation

For most villagers, fishing is not just an occupation but a way of life. The rivers and creeks surrounding the islands teem with fish, crabs, and prawns, providing both sustenance and income.

As I step off the creaking wooden ferry onto the soft, muddy banks of a village near Gosaba, I am struck by how seamlessly land and water blur. The air is thick with the scent of brackish water and damp earth, and boats, large and small, are tethered like cattle outside every home .

"This water gives us our food, our transport, even our gods," says Nurool, a fisherman, gesturing toward the endless expanse. "But it also takes away. When the storm comes, we can only pray" .

"We don't need clocks," chuckles Kamala, a boatwoman ferrying villagers to the weekly market. "The river tells us when to go and when to stay" .

Crab Fishing: Women's Livelihood

Crab fishing is another major livelihood, and interestingly, it is dominated by women . I meet Ruma and her sister ankle-deep in the water, baskets brimming with blue-shelled treasures.

"The river is our employer," Ruma says, rinsing mud off her hands. "We work in its factory every day" . The pay, however, is meagre, and the risks are high. Saltwater poisoning, infections, and the occasional crocodile attack are all part of the job .

Honey Collection: The Perilous Tradition

For the Mawalis or honey collectors, every foray into the mangroves with nothing but prayers and smoke torches is a gamble . They venture deep into the forest, facing tigers, crocodiles, and snakes, to collect the prized wild honey of the Sundarbans.

"We go where Bonbibi allows," says Rafique, referring to the deity who protects them from danger .

Agriculture: A Challenging Pursuit

Agriculture in this tide country is challenging. The soil has not been wholly leached of its salt, bearing poor crops that cannot be farmed all year round. The ever-present threat of embankment breaches due to floods and storms can render land infertile for several years at a time.

Tourism: A Growing Opportunity

With the tourism boom in the Sundarbans, many villagers have found new opportunities. From working as forest guides to performing traditional dances for tourists, hospitality has become an important source of income.

Nityananda Choukidar, who has been a forest guide since 2007, explains: "We don't attract the same influx of wildlife tourists as on-land parks, so we work even harder to help our guests appreciate the delicate ecosystem and, more importantly, the need to preserve it" .

Sanjoy Mondal, owner of Sundarban Safari Eco Resort on Bali Island, adds: "Tourism needs a lot more support here because everything is twice as hard in this unique landscape. The limit of 120 boats per day has significantly reduced permit availability, hitting guest arrivals and interest in exploring the forest" .

Faith and Folklore: The Spiritual Landscape

Bonbibi: The Guardian Deity

This is a land where faith intertwines seamlessly with survival. Bonbibi, the revered guardian deity, is worshipped as the protector of all who venture into the forest . Her temples, often makeshift shrines found under ancient trees, are places of prayer and deliverance .

During the annual Bonbibi Mela, held in mid-January, villagers gather in colourful celebration. Women sing songs recounting Bonbibi's triumph over the demon Dakkhin Rai (who takes the form of a tiger), and children perform plays depicting age-old myths. It is a time of joy and one of reaffirming faith .

Dakkhin Rai: The Tiger Spirit

In the folklore of the Sundarbans, the tiger is not just an animal but a manifestation of Dakkhin Rai, a powerful spirit who must be respected and appeased. This belief shapes how villagers interact with the forest and its dangers.

Folk Tales and Oral Traditions

As night falls, boatmen and villagers gather around dimly lit kerosene lamps, listening to stories passed down through generations. One man swears he saw a half-man, half-fish creature emerge from the river one fateful night. Another speaks of the "ghost tigers" that kill without a trace. Fiction and reality blend effortlessly, creating a world where belief is as vital as breath .

Festivals and Celebrations

Village Life: Daily Rhythms and Routines

Morning: The River Awakens

Dawn breaks over the Sundarbans with a chorus of bird calls. Before sunrise, fishermen are already casting their nets. Women begin their day by fetching water and washing utensils on makeshift bamboo platforms, ever watchful of crocodiles lurking beneath . Children play in the shallows, their laughter mingling with the cries of distant birds and the bubbling mudskippers .

Midday: Work and Rest

The heat of the day brings a lull in activity. Fishermen return with their catch, which is quickly taken to local markets. In villages like those near Sajnekhali, vendors proudly display their day's catch—hilsa, bhetki, prawns—while honey jars glisten like liquid gold under the sun . Here, trade is swift and loud, but beneath the routine transactions lies an unspoken reality: each meal, each item sold, has been wrested from nature's grasp with perseverance and immense luck .

Evening: Community and Storytelling

As the sun sets, painting the sky in hues of orange and purple, communities come together. This is the time for storytelling, for sharing the day's events, and for planning tomorrow's foray into the forest or river.

Cuisine: Tastes of the Tide

The cuisine of the Sundarbans reflects its terrain—simple, unpretentious, and tied to what the river provides .

Staple Foods

"Sundarbans honey is no ordinary honey," boasts a villager selling them. "It's from the wild mangroves, untouched by human hands." True enough, the taste is floral, rich, and unlike anything I have ever tried .

At a small eatery run by an elderly woman named Basanti, visitors can sit down to a meal that speaks of scarcity and creativity. The first bite of shutki maachh is intense, but paired with panta bhat, the flavours mellow into something unexpectedly comforting .

Infrastructure and Services

Transportation

Transport in the Sundarbans is primarily by boat. Every village is connected by waterways, and boats of all sizes – from small country craft to larger launches – serve as the lifeline for communities. As one observer noted, boats are "tethered like cattle outside every home" .

Electricity

Some islands, like Gosaba, enjoy greater advantages in terms of access to services such as grid electricity . However, others, like Sagar Island, do not get power from the main electric supply grid and rely on limited hours of power supply from diesel-operated generating stations .

Healthcare

Medical facilities in the Sundarbans are limited. Basic treatment may be available at local facilities, but serious cases often require travel to hospitals in Basanti or Canning . The Canning Sub-Divisional Hospital serves as a major referral center . Snakebite treatment facilities are available at hospitals like the Sagar Gramin Hospital, but travellers are advised to take precautions .

Education

Schools exist on most inhabited islands, with institutions like Herobhanga Vidyasagar Vidyamandir (est. 1959) serving communities for generations . However, access to higher education often requires travel to larger towns.

The Challenges: Life on the Edge

Cyclones and Floods

The Sundarbans are on the frontlines of climate change. Cyclones and storm surges are a constant threat. Cyclone Aila in 2009 was particularly devastating, and its impacts are still felt today .

Mr. Burman, a resident of Pakhirala, Gosaba, recalls: "Three floods we have witnessed so far – first in 1981, then 1990, and then 2009 Aila, the biggest devastating flood. We moved towards schools and stayed there for almost more than a month and we received food packets from helicopters. We are still facing the impacts of Aila on our lives" .

Land Loss and Erosion

Susan Mandal, a 72-year-old farmer of Bali Island, shares a heartbreaking story: "Due to Aila, production of 'Dhab' (coconut), Banana has been affected. I have lived in Sundarbans from last 70 years. Things have gone from bad to worse. During Aila 2009, my single hectare of land disappeared in front of my eyes. I fear one day our whole village will get disappeared" .

Between 1969 and 2009, 210.25 sq km of the Indian Sundarbans has been lost, with 65.06 sq km lost in the past decade alone .

Salinity and Freshwater Scarcity

Increased salinity in the soil and water affects both agriculture and drinking water availability. Fresh water is the biggest hindrance in many islands .

Migration

With limited livelihood opportunities, many villagers are forced to migrate. Mrinal Raptan, a guide from the Forest Department, notes: "These days, people of Sundarbans are moving to Chennai, Andaman & Nicobar Islands. Lives in these islands are at risk because there is so much dependence on the forest. You cannot risk your life every time" .

Human-Wildlife Conflict

Living next to a tiger habitat means constant danger. Every year, lives are lost to tiger attacks, crocodiles, and snakes. The fear is real, but so is the dependence on the forest for survival.

Tourism and Community: A Delicate Balance

Benefits of Tourism

Tourism has brought new opportunities to the Sundarbans villages. From guide services to homestays and cultural performances, communities have found ways to benefit from the influx of visitors.

The women of Tripligheri performing traditional Munda dances for tourists is a perfect example of how cultural heritage can become a source of sustainable livelihood .

Challenges of Tourism

However, tourism also brings challenges. "With eco-tourism, there was hope for an alternate livelihood, but now, with the tourist permits being made free, the villages surrounding the Sundarbans National Park, which used to get 25 per cent of the revenues for development, will be in shambles," says Choukidar .

He adds: "With guidance from the Forest Department, the local community united to ban and discourage plastic use, and the efforts were successful. But every winter, outside operators disregard these rules and bring tourists who litter and harm our fragile landscape" .

Responsible Tourism: What Visitors Can Do

Visiting Village Islands: A Traveler's Guide

Best Time to Visit

The ideal time to visit the Sundarbans villages is during the winter months, from November to March, when the weather is pleasant and safe for boat travel .

How to Experience Village Life

Accommodation in Villages

Safety Tips for Village Visits

• Carry mosquito and snake repellents 

• Carry torches and emergency lights – power supply can be limited 

• Avoid walking at night without sufficient light – snakebite is common, especially in farming and rainy seasons 

• Use mosquito nets to protect oneself not only from mosquitoes but also from snakes 

• Respect local customs and ask permission before photographing people

The Voice of the People: Stories from the Villages

Deepali's Hope

Deepali Sardar, the Munda dancer from Tripligheri, represents the new generation of Sundarbans villagers who are finding ways to thrive without risking their lives in the forest. "This is a respectable way to earn a living. At least I'm home with my family" .

Nurool's Philosophy

"This water gives us our food, our transport, even our gods. But it also takes away. When the storm comes, we can only pray" .

Susan's Fear

"I fear one day our whole village will get disappeared" .

Kamala's Wisdom

"We don't need clocks. The river tells us when to go and when to stay" .

Conclusion: The Indomitable Spirit of the Sundarbans

The island villages of the Sundarbans are more than just a collection of settlements at the edge of a forest. They are a testament to human resilience, to the ability of communities to adapt, survive, and even thrive in one of the most challenging environments on Earth.

Here, people have learned to read the tides like a clock, to respect the tiger as both threat and deity, and to draw sustenance from the forest without being consumed by it. They have built a culture rich in folklore, faith, and tradition – a culture that is as much a part of the Sundarbans as the mangroves themselves.

Yet, these villages face unprecedented challenges. Climate change brings stronger cyclones and rising seas. Salinity creeps further inland each year. Land erodes, taking homes and dreams with it. Young people migrate in search of better opportunities, leaving behind an aging population.

And still, they persist. The women of Tripligheri dance under the stars, keeping their traditions alive. Fishermen cast their nets at dawn, trusting the river that has sustained their ancestors for generations. Children play by the water's edge, their laughter a defiant response to the dangers that surround them.

For the traveler who takes the time to step off the boat and walk through these villages, the reward is profound – a glimpse into a way of life that is disappearing, a connection with people whose courage and resilience put our own comfortable existences in perspective.

As Amitav Ghosh wrote in The Hungry Tide: "But here, in the tide country, transformation is the rule of life: rivers stray from week to week, and islands are made and unmade in days. Could it be that the very rhythms of the earth were quickened here so that they unfolded at an accelerated pace?" 

In the island villages of the Sundarbans, you witness this accelerated pace of change. But you also witness something more enduring – the human spirit, adapting, surviving, and finding meaning in the dance between land and water, between forest and village, between danger and hope.