Beyond the Tiger: Discovering the Ancient Temples, Folklore, and Shared Heritage of the Sundarbans

Introduction: More Than a Forest

The Sundarbans is universally celebrated for its unique mangrove ecosystem and its iconic resident, the Royal Bengal Tiger. But this landscape of tidal rivers and lush islands holds more than just natural wonders. It is a land steeped in history, folklore, and living culture—a place where the boundaries between myth and reality blur, and where the past is never truly past.

Scattered across the delta, on both the Indian and Bangladeshi sides, are sites that whisper tales of ancient kingdoms, forgotten settlements, and the enduring faith of the people who call this tide country home. From 16th-century temples built by a legendary king to the ubiquitous shrines of a forest goddess who protects all who enter, the cultural heritage of the Sundarbans is as rich and layered as its ecology.

This guide takes you on a journey through the historic and cultural heart of the Sundarbans, exploring the sites and stories that give this region its soul.

The Archaeological Depth: How Old is Human Habitation?

A common misconception, perpetuated by early British administrators, was that the Sundarbans had little history of human settlement . However, modern archaeological research has thoroughly debunked this idea.

Recent discoveries deep within the Indian Sundarbans have unearthed artefacts that push back the timeline of human habitation significantly. Evidence suggests that the region was occupied as early as the 3rd century BCE and continued to be inhabited until as late as the 11th century A.D. .

Notable archaeological sites on the Indian side of the Sundarbans include Mandirtala, Sapkhali, Bamankhali, Pukurberia, Pakurtala, Gobordhanpur, Buraburirtat, and Surandraganj . These sites have yielded ancient artefacts, indicating a long and complex history of human life on these now-remote islands.

The remains found—including terracotta plaques, pottery, and brick structures—point to a civilization that thrived here, adapting to the challenges of the delta long before the forest was declared a reserved area.

Temples in the Wilderness: Monuments of a Lost Kingdom

Perhaps the most evocative historic sites in the Sundarbans are the ancient temples that stand as silent sentinels within the deep forest. These are not grand structures in the style of North India, but intimate, brick-built shrines that reflect the unique architectural heritage of Bengal.

1. The 'Bagher Bari' Temple (Sheikhertek Temple), Bangladesh

On the Bangladeshi side of the Sundarbans, deep within a well-known tiger habitat called Sheikhertek, stands a centuries-old temple that locals have aptly named 'Bagher Bari' —The Tiger's Home . This name comes from the frequent sightings of Royal Bengal Tigers in the area surrounding the temple .

Built approximately 350 years ago, this temple is a significant historical structure. According to the Department of Archaeology, it was constructed using a unique mixture of lime made from local snail shells and sand from the Shibsa River . After falling into disrepair, the temple was recently restored by the Department of Archaeology with funding from the Forest Department, ensuring its longevity while maintaining its original architectural design .

The restoration, completed in late 2024, involved crafting new bricks to match the old ones and recreating the original designs. The outer walls now feature new bricks laid in the old style, while the interior has been reinforced with concrete for strength .

Historically, this temple is linked to the legend of Raja Pratapaditya, one of the Bara-Bhuiyan chiefs who took control of the Sundarbans around 1597. Historical texts suggest he established a fort on the banks of the Shibsa River, and the temple area was part of that fort complex . Today, the Forest Department has opened this unique site for tourists, who can now visit it through the Koyra and Dakop upazilas in Khulna .

2. The Shekher Tek Kali Temple, Bangladesh

Another temple, often mentioned in conjunction with the Bagher Bari site, is the Shekher Tek Kali Temple. Believed to have been built in the 16th century by Raja Pratapaditya, the zamindar of Jashore, this Mughal-era structure is one of the few surviving architectural remains from the medieval human settlements in the Sundarbans .

Located on the east bank of the Shibsa River in the Khulna Range, the temple stands in an area where ruins of various medieval structures, including brick walls, can still be seen. However, the Kali temple is the only one that survives as a standing structure .

The area around the temple is noted for its high tiger density, and construction of a new ecotourism centre there has reportedly disturbed the local tiger population . The Forest Department has built a 1.25 km concrete foot trail from the Shekher Tek Canal to the temple, along with a watchtower for tourists to observe the forest .

3. The Ruins of Netidhopani, India

On the Indian side, the most famous historic site is at Netidhopani. Located deep within the Sundarban Tiger Reserve, about 3.5 hours by boat from Sajnekhali, this site is a captivating blend of legend and history .

The main attraction here is the ruins of a 400-year-old Shiva temple . These weathered brick structures, now partially consumed by the encroaching mangrove forest, stand as a poignant reminder of a bygone era. Archaeological discoveries, particularly terracotta wares, have been found in and around the temple ruins .

The site is also intimately connected to the legend of Behula and Lakhindar from the epic Manasamangal. It is believed that Behula, while journeying with her dead husband, witnessed a woman named Neta bringing a dead child back to life here. Behula learned the verses from her and was thus able to revive her own husband .

The name 'Netidhopani' itself is steeped in this myth, often interpreted as 'blinding hope' or 'washing eyes'. A sweet water pond at the site is said to be where these legendary events unfolded . Beyond mythology, it is also believed that King Pratapaditya built a road near this spot to guard the coastal area against Portuguese pirates .

4. The Shakher Temple: Inspiration for 'Gun Island'

The power of these temples extends beyond their physical presence, even inspiring modern literature. The Shakher Temple, located in the Bangladeshi Sundarbans, is a 17th-century Hindu temple built by Raja Pratapaditya before his defeat by the Mughals in 1611 .

This temple gained international attention when renowned author Amitav Ghosh revealed that it was the real-life inspiration for a fictional temple in his novel, Gun Island. In the book, the narrator visits a small, lovely temple in the Bishnupuri style—with an upturned boat-shaped roof, made of thin, hard bricks. After writing the book, Ghosh was contacted by a geophysicist studying the area, who sent him a picture of the Shakher Temple, which uncannily matched the description in his novel .

The Shakher Temple is said to be the only 'standing ancient structure' in the Sundarbans and is located at Shakher Tek, about one kilometre from the east bank of the Sibsa River . Fortunately, unlike its fictional counterpart, this temple has survived, and an annual puja is still held there .

5. The Shibsha Temple: An Explorer's Account

A vivid, first-hand account from 2005 describes an expedition to the Shibsha temple, located far inside the Sundarbans forest on the eastern bank of the river Shibsha . Explorer Satish Chandra Mitra, in his 1911 book Joshor Khulnar Ittihas, stated that the area was once inhabited by the naval forces of King Pratapaditya and was used as a defending outpost against Portuguese and Arakenese pirates .

The expedition team, despite the scorching heat and dense, thorny vegetation, reached the small temple surrounded by dense wood. They noted that most of the terracotta plaques on the exposed wall had been stolen, and the conical rooftop had been ruined by a Pipul tree. Despite the damage, they confirmed it as the only ancient erect structure in the whole of the Sundarbans, a testament to its former glory .

The Living Culture: Bonbibi and the Spirit of the Forest

While ancient temples speak of kingdoms and rulers, the most pervasive and powerful cultural force in the Sundarbans is the worship of Bonbibi, the guardian spirit of the forest .

The Legend of Bonbibi

In the folklore of the Sundarbans, Bonbibi is a deity sent from Arabia to protect the poor woodcutters, honey collectors (Mouals), and fishermen from the tyranny of Dakshin Rai, a demon who takes the form of a tiger and devours humans . This legend is a remarkable syncretic blend of Hindu and Muslim traditions, reflecting the shared culture of the region. Bonbibi is revered by both communities, and her story teaches the virtues of coexistence and respect for nature .

Shrines and Worship

Throughout the Sundarbans, on both sides of the border, one can find small, often thatched, shrines dedicated to Bonbibi. These are places of prayer and offering, especially for those about to venture into the forest. Before entering tiger territory, honey collectors and fishermen gather at these shrines to chant prayers, mixing Hindu and Muslim invocations: "Ma Bonbibi Allah, Allah" and "Baba Dakshinrai Hari Hari" .

The islanders believe that the forest is meant only for those who are poor and have no intention of taking more than they need. This unwritten agreement between humans and the forest requires a 'pure heart' (entering without greed) and 'empty hands' (entering without firearms) . Bonbibi is seen as the personification of the forest itself, and the faith in her is a reaffirmation of the community's commitment to conservation .

Bonbibi'r Pala: The Performing Art

The stories of Bonbibi are not just told; they are performed. Bonbibi'r Pala is a traditional folk theatre and song form that enacts the tales of the goddess's valour. These performances, often staged in villages, are melodramatic and captivating. They serve not only as entertainment but also as a way to pass down ecological wisdom and the core message of the legend: "If the forest exists, then the tiger lives and only then can we flourish" .

Shared Heritage Across Borders

The cultural connection to the Sundarbans transcends the modern political boundary. Recent initiatives, such as the 'Sundarbans Across Borders' project, have highlighted the shared intangible heritage of communities in both Bangladesh and India .

This project has documented the lives and adaptive knowledge of honey collectors (Mouals) and forest-dependent communities. It features traditional Patachitra scroll work, including depictions of the Bonbibi myth and the honey collection cycle, co-created with community women and children. It also includes live stagings of plays like Dukhe'r Bonobash by theatre groups from Satkhira, Bangladesh, demonstrating that the cultural heartbeat of the Sundarbans is very much alive and shared .

Summary of Key Historic & Cultural Sites

Best Time to Visit

The ideal time to explore both the natural and cultural sites of the Sundarbans is during the winter months, from November to March. The weather is pleasant, with lower humidity and clear skies, making boat travel and walking tours comfortable.

How to Reach Key Cultural Sites

Indian Side

• Netidhopani: Accessible only by boat from Sajnekhali (approx. 3.5 hours). Part of multi-day Sundarban tour packages.

• Archaeological Sites (Mandirtala, etc.): Many are located in the South 24 Parganas district and can be accessed via local transport from towns like Canning or Basanti, often with the help of local guides.

Bangladeshi Side

• Bagher Bari & Shekher Tek Temples: These newly opened sites can be visited through the Koyra and Dakop upazilas in Khulna. Boat travel is required from these points to reach the temple deep within the forest .

Tips for Visiting Cultural Sites

• Hire Local Guides: The history and legends are best understood when shared by local guides who know the stories and the terrain.

• Respect Sacred Places: Bonbibi shrines and temple ruins are often active sites of worship or deep cultural significance. Behave respectfully, ask before taking photographs, and do not touch or remove any artefacts.

• Combine with Nature Tours: Most historic sites are located within or adjacent to protected forest areas. The best way to visit them is as part of a comprehensive Sundarban tour that also covers wildlife watching.

• Carry Essentials: Carry water, insect repellent, and wear comfortable clothing and sturdy shoes for walking, as many sites require a trek through forest trails.

• Check Permits: Some sites, especially those deep within tiger reserves, require forest department permits. Ensure these are arranged through your tour operator in advance.

Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of the Sundarbans

The Sundarbans is a landscape where nature and culture are inseparable. The ancient temples of King Pratapaditya, standing resilient amidst the mangroves, are not just ruins of a lost kingdom; they are symbols of the human spirit's attempt to carve a place in this challenging delta. The ubiquitous shrines of Bonbibi are not just places of worship; they are a living code of conduct, a daily reminder of the sacred pact between humans and the forest.

From the 3rd-century-BCE artefacts that speak of ancient settlements to the vibrant folk performances that continue to enthrall audiences today, the cultural heritage of the Sundarbans is as deep and mysterious as its tidal waterways. For the traveler willing to look beyond the tiger, this heritage offers a profound and moving dimension to the Sundarban experience—a chance to walk through history, to listen to the whispers of legend, and to