Bonnie Camp & Jharkhali

Introduction: The Call of the Wild

If the Sundarbans had a wild, beating heart, it would be found in the remote southern reaches where the mangrove forest meets the Bay of Bengal. This is the realm of Bonnie Camp on Kalas Island – the most adventurous and thrilling destination in the entire Sundarban delta . And serving as its welcoming gateway is Jharkhali, a growing hub that offers easy access to this wilderness while providing its own unique attractions .

While popular spots like Sajnekhali and Sudhanyakhali offer excellent wildlife viewing, Bonnie Camp is for those who seek the road less traveled. It is an experience of raw nature, where the jungle surrounds you completely, and the roar of the Royal Bengal Tiger is not just a possibility but an expectation . Paired with the accessibility and emerging infrastructure of Jharkhali, this circuit represents the ultimate Sundarban adventure.

Part I: Jharkhali – The New Gateway to the Wilderness

Overview and Location

Jharkhali is a village and gram panchayat located in the Basanti CD block of the Canning subdivision, South 24 Parganas district, West Bengal . It is situated between two mighty rivers – the Matla River on the west and the Bidya River on the east – covering an area of approximately 161 square kilometers . Its geographical coordinates are approximately 22°01′35″N 88°41′12″E .

Jharkhali is rapidly emerging as a favorite gateway to the Sundarbans, often called the "New Gateway to the Sunderbans" after Canning and Godkhali . Its strategic location allows visitors to access both the Sundarban Tiger Reserve areas and the South 24 Parganas Forest Division, including Bonnie Camp and Kalas Island .

Why Jharkhali is Special

Jharkhali doesn't overwhelm; it eases you in. It's where the mighty Sundarbans feels approachable, intimate, and surprisingly tender – a place where you can sit by the river at dusk and feel, just for a moment, like you belong . The vibe here is calm, unhurried, and deeply rooted in local life – fishermen mending nets, children playing by the ghat, the smell of salt and wet earth .

Key Attractions at Jharkhali

1. Jharkhali Eco-Tourism Park

One of Jharkhali's unique features is its eco-tourism park – a peaceful, well-maintained space where nature is made understandable . Visitors can:

• Stroll along wooden walkways winding through mangrove plantations

• Read about different mangrove species (like goran, gewa, sundari) on informative signboards

• Spot crabs, mudskippers, and smaller birds in their natural setting

• Simply sit on a bench and absorb the quiet 

The watchtower here gives a wide, open view of the jungle fringes and the river – a perfect stage for first sightings of spotted deer, wild boars, crocodiles, and olive ridley turtles (seasonally) .

2. Tiger Rehabilitation Centre

Perhaps the most significant attraction at Jharkhali is the Tiger Rehabilitation Centre (also known as the Tiger Rescue Center) . This facility was established to provide care for rescued or injured tigers, playing a crucial role in wildlife conservation. It is one of the primary reasons for Jharkhali's fast-growing popularity among tourists .

3. Bonbibi Temple

Right in Jharkhali stands a serene Bonbibi temple – a humble yet powerful reminder of the folk deity who protects all who enter the forest. For the honey collectors, fishermen, boatmen, and now for visitors, Bonbibi is more than a goddess; she is faith, hope, and guardian of the wild . You might see locals offering prayers before heading into the creeks – a beautiful blend of devotion and dependence on nature .

4. Other Facilities

Jharkhali also features a Children's Park and a Butterfly Garden, making it an excellent destination for families . The Jharkhali Coastal Police Station, inaugurated on 30 October 2014, covers an area of 52 km² and ensures effective policing of the remote Sundarbans areas with regular river patrols .

How to Reach Jharkhali

Jharkhali is one of the most accessible points of entry to the Sundarbans, located about 90-120 km from Kolkata .

Nearest Railway Station: Canning (approx. 44-46 km away) 

Accommodation in Jharkhali

Jharkhali offers various stay options to suit different budgets:

• Forest Department Jhar Bungalow – A rustic government accommodation 

• Private Hotels and Homestays – Several options available near the jetty 

• Fisheries Department Lodge – Bookable from Mayukh Bhavan, Kolkata 

Part II: Bonnie Camp (Kalas Island) – The Ultimate Adventure

Overview: The Wild Frontier

Deep in the southern reaches of the Sundarbans, where the mangrove forest meets the Bay of Bengal, lies Bonnie Camp on Kalas Island (also spelled Kalash Island). This is not just another watchtower destination; it is the most vibrant and thrilling camp in the Sundarbans, situated within the jurisdiction of the Raidighi range under the South 24-Parganas Forest Division .

Bonnie Camp presents an unparalleled blend of jungle, river, and offbeat exploration. Renowned for its striking watchtower, pristine beach, and high tiger activity, it offers visitors a mesmerizing experience amidst pristine natural surroundings .

Key Information at a Glance

The Magnificent Watchtower

The centerpiece of Bonnie Camp is its iconic 50-foot tall wooden watchtower – the highest in the entire Sundarbans . From this elevated perch, visitors are treated to breathtaking panoramic views:

• The dense, unbroken expanse of mangrove forest stretching to the horizon

• The vast blue waters of the Bay of Bengal meeting the forest edge

• The pristine Kalash Beach, a rare sandy coastline in this muddy delta

• Opportunities to spot wildlife, including the Royal Bengal Tiger 

The tower's height provides an unparalleled vantage point, making it possible to observe animals from a safe distance while feeling completely immersed in the wilderness.

The Thrill of Tiger Sightings

Bonnie Camp is renowned for its high tiger density, making it one of the best places in the Sundarbans for potential tiger sightings. The experience can be truly unforgettable:

• In January 2023, tourists at Bonnie Camp had the experience of a lifetime, spotting a tiger from the watchtower at around 9:30 PM on a Saturday night. Two big cats were spotted, both during the day and at night .

• An Assistant Divisional Forest Officer (ADFO) beautifully captured a tiger with his camera from the watchtower, confirming the presence of these magnificent predators in the area .

• The South 24-Parganas Forest Division has installed 157 pairs of trap cameras across grids in Matla, Raidighi, and Ramganga Range for tiger estimation and monitoring of other important species .

Despite protective measures such as a 10-foot-high fence and a 20-foot trench around the island, Kalas Island remains a habitat for Royal Bengal Tigers, adding an element of thrilling adventure to visits . Tourists are always accompanied by forest rangers due to the potential presence of these majestic creatures, ensuring safety while exploring the island's natural wonders .

Kalash Beach – A Rare Gem

One of the unique attractions of Kalas Island is Kalash Beach, spanning an area of approximately 4 acres . Unlike the muddy banks typical of the Sundarbans delta, this beach offers a stretch of sand where visitors can walk and appreciate the meeting point of forest and sea. It is a rare and precious feature that adds to the island's allure.

The Ambiance: Day and Night

Bonnie Camp offers a complete sensory immersion into the wilderness:

• Daytime: The forest comes alive with the calls of birds, the rustle of leaves as deer move through the undergrowth, and the constant presence of the river. The watchtower offers a commanding view of this activity.

• Nighttime: The ambiance transforms into something ethereal. Under the moonlight, the jungle takes on a magical quality. The night is punctuated by the evocative sounds of the jungle, including the occasional roar of the Royal Bengal Tiger – a sound so powerful it seems to vibrate in your bones .

Wildlife at Bonnie Camp

The area around Bonnie Camp and Kalas Island is exceptionally rich in biodiversity :

The Journey: Jharkhali to Bonnie Camp

Travel Time and Route

The journey from Jharkhali to Bonnie Camp is an adventure in itself, taking approximately 6 hours by boat through the intricate network of Sundarban waterways . The route winds through narrow creeks, past remote islands, and deeper into the core forest area.

Sample Itinerary (3 Nights / 4 Days)

A typical tour covering Jharkhali and Bonnie Camp follows this pattern :

Day 1: Kolkata to Jharkhali to Bonnie Camp

• Morning: Depart Kolkata, arrive at Jharkhali by 11:00 AM

• Obtain forest permits and board tourist boat

• 6-hour boat journey to Bonnie Camp (lunch and snacks served on board)

• Arrive at Bonnie Camp by 5:00 PM, overnight stay on boat or at camp

Day 2: Kalash and Return towards Pakhiralay

• Early morning departure for Kalash area

• Explore Kalash Beach and surrounding creeks

• Begin return journey towards Pakhiralay via Bonnie Camp and Jharkhali

Day 3: Buridabri Excursion

• Visit Buridabri watchtower via Sajnekhali (obtain permits)

• Experience the mud walk and mangrove cage trail

• View the international border with Bangladesh from Raimongal View Point

• Return to Pakhiralay for overnight stay

Day 4: Dobanki and Return

• Visit Dobanki Watch Tower (496-meter canopy walk)

• Explore sweet water pond and surrounding area

• Return to Jharkhali and proceed to Godkhali for journey back to Kolkata

Important Notes for Travelers

• Minimum group size: Many operators require a minimum of 6-8 persons for this tour 

• Permits are mandatory: Forest department permissions must be obtained at Jharkhali before departure 

• Experienced guides: Forest rangers accompany all groups due to tiger presence 

Best Time to Visit

Bonnie Camp

The optimal time to experience Bonnie Camp's allure is between October and March, when the weather is favorable for exploration . The rivers can have significant rolling and waves even during normal times, and the situation becomes dangerous from April to September, when trips can only be undertaken in sturdy boats and launches .

Jharkhali

Practical Information for Visitors

Jharkhali – Essential Details

What to Carry

Rules and Regulations

• Obey the rules of your guide and tour manager at all times 

• Maintain peace and cleanliness of the jungle and river 

• Do not go down to the river or stroll beyond designated areas at night 

• Alcohol is prohibited on boats 

• Still/Video camera charges may apply and are usually not included in package prices 

Costs to Consider

The Unique Appeal: Why Choose This Circuit?

Bonnie Camp – For the Adventurous Soul

Bonnie Camp is not for everyone. It requires time, patience, and a willingness to venture far off the beaten path. But for those who make the journey, the rewards are immense:

• The tallest watchtower in the Sundarbans offering unparalleled views

• The highest probability of tiger sightings in a natural setting

• The rare experience of a sandy beach in the mangrove delta

• The thrill of hearing a tiger roar in the night from the safety of your camp 

Jharkhali – The Perfect Base and Gateway

Jharkhali complements Bonnie Camp perfectly by offering:

• Easy accessibility from Kolkata, making it ideal for first-time visitors 

• Family-friendly attractions including the Eco-Park, Children's Park, and Butterfly Garden 

• The Tiger Rehabilitation Centre, providing educational insights into conservation 

• A calm, welcoming atmosphere where you can experience the Sundarbans without deep jungle expeditions 

• Multiple accommodation options to suit different budgets 

Together, Jharkhali and Bonnie Camp offer a complete Sundarban experience – from the gentle introduction at the gateway to the raw, untamed heart of the wilderness.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q1: What is Bonnie Camp famous for?

A: Bonnie Camp is famous for having the tallest watchtower (50 feet) in the Sundarbans, its location on Kalas Island with a rare sandy beach (Kalash Beach), and its high density of Royal Bengal Tigers, offering excellent opportunities for sightings .

Q2: How do I reach Bonnie Camp?

A: Bonnie Camp is accessible only by boat, typically starting from Jharkhali. The journey takes approximately 6 hours through the Sundarban waterways . Tours usually require a minimum of 3 nights and 4 days.

Q3: What is Jharkhali famous for?

A: Jharkhali is famous as the "New Gateway to the Sundarbans" . Its key attractions include the Jharkhali Eco-Tourism Park , the Tiger Rehabilitation Centre , a serene Bonbibi temple , and its easy accessibility from Kolkata .

Q4: How far is Jharkhali from Kolkata?

A: Jharkhali is approximately 90-120 km from Kolkata, reachable by road in about 3-3.5 hours .

Q5: Is it safe to visit Bonnie Camp?

A: Yes, visits are conducted under the supervision of forest rangers who accompany all groups due to the presence of tigers. The watchtower and camp are equipped with safety measures including fencing . Visitors must strictly follow guide instructions.

Q6: When is the best time to visit Bonnie Camp and Jharkhali?

A: The best time is from October to March, when weather conditions are pleasant and safe for boat travel. The period from April to September, especially monsoon, is not recommended due to rough seas and high tides .

Q7: Can I see tigers at Bonnie Camp?

A: Bonnie Camp has a high tiger density and is considered one of the best spots in the Sundarbans for tiger sightings. However, sightings are never guaranteed in a natural habitat. In January 2023, tourists successfully spotted tigers both during the day and at night .

Q8: What facilities are available at Jharkhali?

A: Jharkhali offers a range of facilities including the Eco-Tourism Park, watchtower, Tiger Rehabilitation Centre, Children's Park, Butterfly Garden , multiple accommodation options , a primary health centre , and a coastal police station .

Q9: How many days are required for this circuit?

A: A minimum of 3 nights and 4 days is recommended to properly experience both Jharkhali and Bonnie Camp, including travel time .

Q10: Are there accommodation options at Bonnie Camp?

A: Accommodation at Bonnie Camp typically involves staying on the tourist boat or in eco-friendly cottages/tents at the camp. Visitors should book through licensed tour operators who arrange all permits and stays .

Conclusion: The Adventure of a Lifetime

Bonnie Camp and Jharkhali together form one of the most compelling travel circuits in the Sundarbans. Jharkhali welcomes you with open arms – its eco-park, tiger rehabilitation centre, and riverside tranquility offering a gentle introduction to the mangrove world. It is a place where you can slow down, breathe, and begin to understand the rhythm of life in the tide country.

Then, from this comfortable base, you embark on the journey to Bonnie Camp – a voyage that takes you deeper, further, and closer to the wild heart of the Sundarbans. Here, on Kalas Island, you stand atop the tallest watchtower, scanning the horizon for a flash of orange and black. You walk on a rare sandy beach where the forest meets the sea. At night, you listen to the sounds of the jungle – the rustle of leaves, the call of unknown birds, and perhaps, if you are fortunate, the deep, resonant roar of a tiger.

This is not just a tour; it is an immersion. It is a chance to experience the Sundarbans not as a spectator, but as a visitor to one of the last great wildernesses on Earth. For those who seek adventure, who are willing to trade comfort for authenticity, who understand that the greatest rewards often lie farthest from the beaten path, the Bonnie Camp and Jharkhali circuit offers an experience that will linger in memory forever.